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Explore, Experience and Enjoy the Beautiful Smith River in Southern Virginia

Saturday, February 21, 2009

Winter's Icy Grip


Spring is not here yet.

The past few days saw a return to colder temperatures, and the icy grip of winter has refused to yield to spring just yet.


A chilly reminder are the icicles clinging to the cliffs along Riverbrook Drive as it runs along the Smith River just below Philpott dam.

Article and photos by: Brian Williams
Edited and posted by: Vicky Thomas

Saturday, February 14, 2009

Did you get outside today?

Did you see those beautiful blue-bird skies?
I hope everyone was able to enjoy the weather today as much as we did.

Did you slow down for a minute, stop and breath in the crisp air as it blew a hint of warm air across the fields and hardwood ridges? Even if you just stepped out on your porch you couldn't help but turn your face to the sun and say "thanks"...Winter is still here but spring is definitely coming. It's a safe bet to say we have not seen the last of the cold gray skies but these warm sun-soaked days sure make you think we may have escaped winters icy grasp for another season.
With no particular plan in mind, Patty and I headed out this afternoon to find some woods and water. It didn't really matter where we ended up as long as those two criteria were met. That's one of the cool things about Henry County, no matter where you live you are not far from a hidden spot you may have never seen, or an old favorite that never fails to deliver.

The sparkling waters of this tributary cascade down stair-step bedrock ledges as the water falls off the ridge-line and heads for its rendezvous with the Smith.
Hike along the Smith just about anywhere and you are sure to encounter the ever present gray and white patchy bark of the sycamore as it stretches out over the water, shading the river and making a home for countless insects, birds and other wildlife. Its roots miraculously holding the the bank from spilling into the stream.
The further downstream you go heading southeast the more you see of the craggy old river birch with its curled and flaky, paper-like bark that seems as if you stand there and peel it all the way down to a sapling.
We headed upstream, flanked by tall rock outcrops, the river indifferent to our presence as it continued its run to the coast...


Up on the ridge, impressive "gray ghost" guard the horizon, the huge beech trees, their flat smooth trunks stark against the dried browns of the winter leaves, cling to the steep banks and cliffs as though they alone are holding the ridge together...and perhaps they are.


This old beech tree spreads its roots out over the crumbly, mossy rocks like an octopus spreading out tentacles; the trees full weight seems to crush the stones underneath.



The river catches the light from the afternoon sun and casts it up against the rocks and beyond the slope while the shadows grow long and we know it's time to head back.



I hope you got outside today...did you?


Article and photos by: Brian Williams
Edited and posted by: Vicky Thomas

Friday, January 9, 2009

Dressing Properly for Cold Weather

The Blue Ridge Ski and Outing Club will hold a membership meeting on Tuesday, January 13 at the Collinsville Bistro. Dinner will begin at 6:30 and special guest Aaron Daniel will discuss the importance of proper cold weather gear. Daniel is a PSIA certified level 2 (of 3) ski instructor with 12 years of instructing experience and worked in ski retail shops as a custom boot fitter for 20 years. According to Becky Hale, BRSOC President, “this is a great opportunity for those interested in skiing to come and see what our club is all about. And, it’s not just about skiing; we have all kinds of outdoor events planned and our socials give an opportunity for newcomers to meet new people.”

The Blue Ridge Ski & Outing Club started in 1979 as a non-profit organization to introduce non-skiers to active winter sports, promote safety, and provide members with ski trips at a low cost. There are a total of 180 members in the club throughout North America, and the activities have expanded to include many popular outdoor, and some indoor, group adventures and socials. For more information about BRSOC visit our website at www.BRSOC.org.

Sunday, December 14, 2008

Never too Cold

December 13, 2008

Yea, its cold outside, but that’s no reason to hibernate. I can’t stand it, I have to get outside on a beautiful day with crisp, clear skies.

Not every weekend has to be adventure filled, sometimes its nice just to relax, but I can only sit still for so long. Saturday morning found us sleeping late, pigging out on a big breakfast, putting up the Christmas tree, cleaning the house and catching up on email… Now what ? Sitting at the computer, staring out the window at the morning doves and chicakdess stocking up on millet seed scattered across the backyard deck, cabin fever was starting to set in. Even the dogs were getting lethargic, but I knew they too needed to get out and play.

Perfect excuse ! We got to take the dogs for a walk. Dogs need a walk everyday…and people do too. We are lucky to live within 10 miles of the Gravely Nature Preserve and it is still one of our all time favorite local hikes. We throw on some warm layers, load up the dogs, and head for the woods. Stopping by to pick up our nephew and his dog now we had an outing, 3 dogs and 3 hikers.

We arrived at Gravely, leashed up the dogs and headed for the trail. Another hiker and dog were spotted heading out of the woods and back to the parking area. Gravely is always a pleasure to hike with its easy trails through hardwood forest, river views from the ridge and a variety of flora, each season brings a different experience. Our favorite trail in the Rhododendron trail as it winds down the spur heading toward the river. Curving around the toe of the ridge the river comes into view and beckons you down in to the rich bottom land, the path leading to the canopy-covered section of its namesake tree as it winds along the banks of the Smith.

The rain from the past few days had swelled the river to a perfect level for boating and we spotted Rich Elliot and Amy in kayaks, stopping briefly to say hello. As they paddled out of sight, I was a bit envious of them and wished I too had taken to the river that day, but I’m sure the dogs were happy that we had made the decision to hike instead.


After taking the Burgess loop trail, we spent some time visiting the graveyard on the top of the ridge. This is really a neat place to hang out for a while and think back on what it must have been like here back in the 1800's. Thankfully, we now have this piece of history preserved for future generations to have their own historical and natural experience.
We took a slow round trip down the trails and returned to the parking area, loaded up the dogs and headed out. I took the back way home so we could go across Mitchell Bridge and perhaps catch a glimpse of the kayakers coming down. With two other vehicles already at the pull-off, I squeezed in front of the line and thought about how nice it was going to be when we finally got a much needed access point opened here. Jenn is currently working on the design and funding and it can’t come soon enough.
Boaters are out there all seasons enjoying the river and if it was this crowed on a cold winter day, just think of the use when warmer weather arrives. I headed out on the bridge to take a look upstream. There were boats coming down the last rapid before the bridge. It was a kayak and a canoe, definitely not Rich and Amy who we had seen earlier in the day in kayaks. I waited as they got close to the bridge then hollered out a greeting. It was none other than our buddy J.B. Frith in the lead kayak. Bringing up the rear in the canoe was local river rat Grant Price who has moved away but had returned for the weekend and taken the opportunity t0 introduce his girlfriend to this beautiful section of the Smith.
It was getting dark as we dragged the boats up the hill to the truck and I was already thinking about a warm fire and a nice cup of hot chocolate. Driving back by Gravely we saw another family,with dog, just getting off the trail.
So when you think its too cold to get outside…remember…its not. Just in the short time we were out that day we saw 5 boaters and 5 other hikers.
So get off the couch, if they can do it, so can you !

Hey JB...get some shoes on ! Kids these days ......

Sunday, October 26, 2008

Mushrooms, Turtles, and Snakes, Oh my!

Article and pictures by: Brian Williams
Edited and posted by: Vicky Thomas

The Virginia Environmental Educators Conference was held here in Martinsville back in September at the Virginia Museum of Natural History. The museum staff combined forces with area groups to provide a fantastic conference. The schedule of events included; great speakers, displays, presentations, a party with bluegrass music, and of course some neat field trips.

Our own Jennifer Doss led a group of 15 conference attendees to Gravely Nature Preserve for a guided hike and discussion on how this park was developed, and how it is currently being utilized as an interpretative preserve combining historical and natural wonders. Every season is different at Gravely, and no matter how many times you have been, the very nature of the forest provides a new experience each time. This hike proved to be notable not only for Jenn's outstanding interpretation of the local area history, but also for a few unexpected surprises that lay in store. We headed across the parking lot to our first stop at the old tobacco barns.
Just around the corner from the barns we enter the woods and stopped at the forest succession sign. A pungent smell was lingering in the air that I immediately recognized it as snake musk. Some of the group thought it was something dead but a few others recognized the smell too and we began searching the area. Soon enough one of the ladies had found the source...a nice little dark phase Hognose snake (heterodon platyrhinos) The hognose snake has a fascinating arrayof defense mechanisms and this "musking" is its first line of defense...but that didn't work on this group.

Next we were treated to it's second defense plan and this one did not hesitate to show us first why it is also nicknamed the "spreading adder."

Once again, this had no effect and it quickly realized that this crowd wasn't buying the whole "Hey, look at this triangle shaped head....I'm really a deadly snake ...really," so it turned to its final trick....the dramatic "death" sequence, complete with mouth agape and tongue hanging out.

"They'll leave me alone now...I'm dead...no one wants a dead snake! They should be running away any minute now...I'll just lift up here and take a quick peak."

"Man, this is a tough crowd, they are just not falling for it...Uh oh, here comes the hand....that's ok, I'll really prove to ‘em that I'm dead now..."

(Engage limp body sequence.)

"Ok, this ain't working either. Just play it cool...keep that mouth open..maybe they'll think I'm a cottonmouth now !"

We really didn't harass the little guy too long, and eventually we all moved on up the trail. (I imagined the hognose meeting another snake later that day and saying..."you won't believe what happened to me. I really got to get a new act.")

Another surprise of the hike was the incredible display of a wide variety of mushrooms.


I won't even attempt to identify all the varieties represented but there was a wonderful article in the Martinsville Bulletin on the mushrooms at Gravely by Holly Kozelsky with great photos by Mike Wray and some mushroom ID's by Richard Hoffman of the VMNH.

Our group couldn't get enough of the fabulous fungi. We stopped for lots of ‘shroom photo op's.



Further up the trail we encountered one of the many resident box turtles (Terrapene carolina) that call Gravely home.


While not as exciting as the "death display" of the hognose snake, the turtles own defense of "I'll just be in my shell" technique was just as effective.

We hiked through the sun-dappled forest over the Jones Cliff Trail and Burgess Loop then back to the cemetery where Jenn shared the history of the Burgess Plantation.

Monday, September 22, 2008

After The Fall

Part 2:

Now if you really want to cool off after a long day, just plan to be on the river right after they shut down the generators and the water begins to fall. The cool evaporation is incredible and in no time at all you will be pulling on that jacket you brought along with you.

Monday afternoon (Sept 8) the generation was scheduled to stop at 6 p.m. I headed up to the base of the dam to time the actual flow stoppage and the water drop downstream. They turned the spigot off at 6 p.m. sharp and the water dropped 1 foot in less than 5 minutes.

The fog banks began to arrive in ghostly striated patterns above the receding waters. After 30 minutes of timing water level decrease near the dam, I headed back down the river about a mile to check on the falling waters at the next waypoint.

Watching a couple of trout rise through the mist below, I had to go back to the truck and grab my waders and flyrod. As the sun touched the ridge and the air chilled even more, I coaxed a few browns into feeding. They were not real aggressive on the bite, just sort of stopped the nymph and held on and it was sometimes difficult to tell whether it was a fish or the DIDYMO algae that had your nymph.

The Green headed Coneflowers (Rudbeckia laciniata) seemed to be the predominant yellow wildflower on this section although there were some goldenrod and wingstem as well.

A bumblebee greedily digs into the nectar of the bloom on a White Turtle-head flower (Chelone glabra).
Soon my indicator was disappearing again and another fat brown was on the line.



A smaller brown took the fly and after a releasing him, he hung out around my boots for a couple of shots (below photo), then I nudged him and he darted off back into the shadows of the overhanging trees along the bank.

One more nice brown and I was heading home.



As I released the last trout of the evening back into the river, I once again marveled at how this place seems so remote yet is less than 15 minutes from our office. Dusk arrived and was quickly followed by darkness as the days grow shorter. I pulled out my headlamp and picked my way back upstream, back to the truck, back to the "other" world.


Photo and article by: Brian Williams
Edited by: Vicky Thomas

Wednesday, September 10, 2008

After The Fall

Part 1


The days are growing shorter and dusk now brings a hint of cooler air each evening. Its late summer on the Smith and a good time to experience a final showy display of color before the wildflowers return to dormancy and the forest is speckled with falls parade. It's also a good time to get out on the river and enjoy some afternoon wading and fly-fishing, hoping for a possible "showy" display of color from the local trout population.


At this time of year the bright yellows petals of the Wingstem (Verbesina alternifolia) are standouts along the banks of the Smith.

The deep purples of the Closed Gentian (Gentianaceae Gentiana andrewsii) ....

.....compete for attention with the brilliant reds of the Cardinal Flower (Lobelia cardinalis)

Sunday morning arrived warm with still summertime temps, perfect for cooling off in the river. The cool water evaporating into blankets of mist keeps you comfortable, even during the hottest part of the day. I headed out to the special regulation trout section around noon, even though I knew the trout probably would not be hitting till latter in the day, I enjoy just walking up the river and spotting trout as they slink back into the shadows or dart under a rock.


A smaller brown "camoflauged" against a backdrop of DIDYMO algae.
Heading quietly upstream I began to make a few cast and soon encountered perhaps the smallest brown trout I had ever caught on a fly rod. It had to be from the wild population on the Smith because it was even smaller than most of the ones we released from the Trout in the Classroom Program during June. He took a # 18 bead head nymph.

A few more small browns fell to my nymph and I convinced them to hang around just long enough for a few quick photos before I released them, perhaps a little wiser.

Continuing my trek upstream, my eyes were drawn to a vibrant contrast of the black and yellow hanging out in the greens and orange of a stand of Jewelweed (Balsaminaceae Impatiens capensis). A silky trap, beautifully crafted by a writing spider (Argiope aurantia) was attracting its share of the afternoon hatch.

As evening approached, the larger trout were coming out to feed and it wasn't long before I had hooked up with several more "Smith River beauties."

Each one was a little larger than the previous.